In the research on Coastal
and Estuarine Hydrodynamics, emphasis
is on numerical modelling of currents in shelf
seas and estuaries, on numerical modelling
of wave generation and propagation in the
coastal zone (spectral approach), on the interaction
of waves and currents, and on statistical
properties of waves, such as wave climate
and extreme waves in shallow water using time
series analysis of individual wave records
and numerical simulation of non-linear waves.
The Sediment Mechanics
Research is focused on the behaviour and fate
of non-cohesive sediments (sand) and cohesive
sediments (mud) in coastal areas, estuaries,
rivers, reservoirs and sewer systems. The
major research activities are related to a
better theoretical understanding of the processes
and to the numerical modelling of sediment-laden
turbulent flow under currents and wave action.
Also experimental laboratory studies and field
measurements are carried out.
Remote sensing
offers the opportunity to gather data simultaneously
over large, sometimes inaccessible areas,
such as tidal flats. Processing techniques
for hyperspectral images of tidal flats are
studied in order to be able to obtain maps
of soil classification with discrimination
of major grain classes and biota. The link
between erodibility of the surface and its
spectral signature as a function of geophysical
and biotic soil characteristics, is studied
both in the laboratory and in the field.
