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Numerical modelling of waves

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 Extreme waves : forecast and impact on marine structures (MAXWAVE) (Jaak Monbaliu, Allessandro Toffoli)

The project wants to confirm the existence of individual waves of exceptional wave height or abnormal shape (rogue waves).
New design criteria considering the impact of rogue waves on ships and offshore constructions are to be derived. The innovation is the combination of oceanographic knowledge, ocean wave data resources and theoretical considerations with new approaches to vessel and marine construction design and operation.
It addresses the needs of coastal engineers and port designers/operators in terms of the influence and impact of extreme waves. One of the objective is therefore to provide a quality-based metocean information product for the benefit of both high sea and coastal zone operating industry and authorities.

This project is sponsored by the EU under the 5th Framework Programme.

Maxwave.pdf

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 Safety level for Flanders coastal defence : delivery of a numerical model for currents and waves (Jaak Monbaliu)

Flanders Hydraulics has a need for good boundary conditions for their coastal models in Delft3D, both for currents and for waves. A number of tasks need to be executed:
- tidal propagation model for the European Cont. Shelf (spherical)
- spherical wave propagation model (WAM)-North Sea implementation
- time series bound. cond. for Delft 3D coastal current models
- output WAM compatible with SWAN coastal model
- output in ASCII for further graphical treatment
- implementation of the codes on the infrastructure of FH
- final report and manuals

This project is sponsored by AWZ.

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Wave Data Base for the Flemish Coast (Jaak Monbaliu, Sarah Doorme)

Related to the overall safety of our dikes and coastal defence line there is a need to know de wave boundary conditions at the toe of these coastal protection measures. The design parameters for these wave boundary conditions can be calculated by means of a numerical model that is well calibrated using the existing wave measurements.
The project contains five major sub-tasks:
- establish a calculational mesh
- methodology for the calibration of the wave model (SWAN)
- calibration of the model
- carry out the calculations as input into the wave data base
- final report

This project is sponsored by AWZ.

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Management, Research and Budgetting of Aggregates in Shelf Seas related to End-users (MAREBASSE) (Jaak Monbaliu)

The research project frames into the strategic research on marine ecosystems and the sustainable management of the North Sea with priority towards the theme ‘Evaluation of sedimentary systems and the development of new evaluation technologies within the view of a sustainable management of the Belgian exclusive economic zone (EEZ)’. An evaluation of sedimentary systems calls for the development of appropriate tools and strategies that are efficient and flexible enough to meet future needs regarding the exploitation of the EEZ. Within the concept of a ‘sustainable management’, the research proposal is relevant towards different uses of the sea such as marine aggregate extraction, dredging/dumping operations and the implantation of windmill farms, however, with the main emphasis on the sediments themselves.

>> MAREBASSE website

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Numerical modelling and experimental validation of wave interaction with impermeable sea dikes (Jaak Monbaliu, Allessandro Toffoli)

The main objective of this project is to form the fundamental scientific base for the development of new design tools for impermeable dikes, mainly based on numerical modelling, and supported by physical models. The combination of the numerical and physical research will allow the validation of the numerical models. This project wants to go one step further by developing a "hybrid design method", in which numerical and physical modelling are combined, using the advantages and avoiding the disadvantages are combined, using the advantages and avoiding the disadvantages of both modelling ways. Prototype measurements of waves and structural response will be used for validation purposes.

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Wave climate for the Belgian coast : pilot project (Jaak Monbaliu)

under construction

This project is sponsored by AWZ.

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Pre-Operational Modeling In the Seas of Europe (PROMISE) (Jaak Monbaliu)

The primary objective of the EC-MAST III project PROMISE (Pre-Operational Modelling In the Seas of Europe) was to develop a framework to optimise the application of existing pre-operational dynamical models of the North Sea in order to quantify the rates and scales of the exchange of sediments between the coast and the near-shore zone. This framework should also be applicable to other coastal areas and for broader management applications. The project started in 1996 and finishes early 1999.

The work was structured into 4 components: observations (O), rationalising existing models (R), wave modelling (W) and turbulence / sediment modelling (S). Further information, including an overview of the papers and reports published can be found at http://www.pol.ac.uk/promise/.

The Hydraulics Laboratory of K.U.Leuven was mainly involved in the wave modelling component. For the W-component the objective was to develop methodologies for application of existing third generation (3G) models in shallow water, including numerical improvements to enable high resolution shelf applications and the introduction of interactions associated with tidal and storm surge dynamics, ultimately for use in SPM-modelling. The three milestones for the wave component in PROMISE were the establishment and dissemination of model codes for the following:

  • MW-1: Waves in the North Sea - shelf scale

  • MW-2: Waves in shallow water - coastal scale

  • MW-3: Combined waves and tides

At the beginning of the project it was opted to improve the capabilities of the WAM-Cycle4 model (Günther et al., 1992), a model which is considered state of the art at least for deep and intermediate water depths.

Waves on shelf scale have been studied through an intercomparison exercise between different implementations at the different participating institutes.

For wave modelling in coastal regions where usually shallow water conditions prevail and high spatial resolution is needed, considerable enhancements to the WAM-Cycle 4 model have been made so that the model has become practically applicable.

Waves interacting with tide formed the last part of the project. A generic module in which tides, surges and waves are incorporated has been developed and tested. Two existing pre-operational models, the enhanced WAM wave model and a hydrodynamic model were adapted and incorporated into a coupling framework that allows an efficient exchange of information.

The relevant computer code can be obtained through anonymous ftp to '134.58.57.50' in the subdirectory 'hydr/PROMISE'.

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