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Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck is the wild one of the Antwerp
Six. He has a young and explosive creativity, does not comply with conventions
and is not only loyal to his visions, but continually develops new ones.
Fascinated by toys, computers and new media, Walter presents colourful
and very hot collections. He is one of the first designers who has explored
and used the internet and CD-Roms.
The Beginning
Walters' fashion career started in 1980, the year of
his graduation. It was the time of Cinderella’s Ballroom in Antwerp,
the punk period in England and the rise of the designers: Armani, Versace
and Gaultier. Two years later, in 1982, he presented his first collection
inspired by insects. Picture The Belgian fashion world heralded a new
genius. At the “Gouden Spoel” contests, he received the award
of the press and the award of the Belgian manufacturers.
W<
“A wild child, born of the blue jeans generation,
the W< brand is powered by a vision that kicks out faded urban cowboy
nostalgia to create clothes that capture the new life spirit of today’s
global youth.”
In 1993 he established the W< label, in cooperation
with the German company Mustang. W< stands for “Wild And Lethal
Trash”. The name says it all. W< is a new and refreshing brand.
Walter's creations do not require the ideal body and embody a positive
up-front message. For W< Van Beirendonck designs street wear in
fierce colours, manufactured with the most modern materials derived from
sports- and outdoor clothes. Picture
Puk Puk, a little alien with antenna-like ears accompanies
Van Beirendonck. The mascot, illustrating the creative mind of the designer,
comes from Dork, a planet of rubber volcanoes and florid flowers out in
deep space. He lives over the rainbow with a crowd of intergalactic friends.
Every day he beams down to Earth, spreading the W< message: Get
connected! Kiss the future.
 
Breakthrough- Cologne, August 1994
When the W< 1994 spring/summer collection was presented
during the men’s fashion week in Cologne, it was a sensational international
success. Grunge and suicide were out and W< was in.
The W.&L.T. slogan: Kiss the Future!
The W.&L.T. attitude: Be positive. Be awake. Be funny.
Be brave.
The W.&L.T. desires: Love, passion, rhythm, action,
hope, wishes, light and adventures.
The W.&L.T. ideology: Sanctified contrasts: love
and aggression, sex and romance, day and night, angel and devil.
An important reason for the spectacular press reverberations
concerning W< is Van Beirendonck’s extraordinary new way of
presenting the fashion shows. During the 1999 winter-autumn show in Paris
for example, the models were completely wrapped in latex, with only a
few air holes. The models worked the catwalk to the rhythm of techno vibes,
dressed in fluorescent orange safety suits, glittering cat suits and sweatshirts
in neon colours with intriguing accessories to match, such as cockscomb
- shaped headdresses. Taking 60's unisex a stage further, it was almost
impossible to determine the sex of the models.

Kiss the future!
With this cry Bono, the lead singer of U2 roused the
crowd during the concerts on the Popmart tour in 1997. The slogan was
inspired by knickers designed by Walter Van Beirendonck which bore the
slogan “Kiss the future!” on the front. Bono, who asked Van
Beirendonck to design the outfits for U2’s tour is not the only
person who is wildly enthusiastic about his creations. The presentation
of the W< show is a regular highlight of the Paris fashion week.

A Turning Point
At the end of the nineties Mustang went through serious
financial troubles, the company wanted to earn back its investments. Because
Van Beirendonck felt that his freedom was curtailed, he decided to put
an end to the cooperation. The W< collection is still on track,
but there are no more fashion shows.
The fashion year (2001) with the theme "mode landed
gelanded" ,came at an excellent moment for Van Beirendonck. It was
a period of chaos, but Van Beirendonck accepted the leadership of the
project immediately. He wanted to think about the essence of fashion again.
Actually, fashion is a too narrow definition for the
work of Van Beirendonck who, in spite of his international success, still
lives and works in Antwerp. It is more a lifestyle, a mentality that radiates
from his activities for which he draws on diverse sources. Fashion lies
at the heart of his work, though fine art, photography, video, science
fiction and cartoons are all elements that appear in his work.
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Ann Demeulemeester
Marina Yee
Dries Van Noten
Dirk Bikkembergs
Dirk Van Saene
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